The African paradise ravaged by roses

Lake Naivasha in Kenya is where most of the flowers bought on Valentine's Day are grown. As part of the CPU's environmental reporting course in February, Ochieng' Ogodo and John Vidal filed this report on the ecological and human costs.

Thirty years ago, hippos and Masai herders shared the shoreline of Lake Naivasha in the Rift valley of Kenya with the small local community of farmers and fishermen. The lake was judged one of the 10 top sites for birds in the world; its acacia and euphorbia trees were famed for their beauty, and its clear fresh waters were abundant with fish. The human census in 1969 showed just 27,000 people living in the surrounding areas.

Today, the population is nearly 300,000 and security guards with walkie talkies patrol the few paths left open for local people and animals to get down to the lake. Naivasha, officially 130 square kilometres, shrank last year to about 75% of its 1982 size and the great papyrus swamps that were the breeding grounds for fish have been largely cut down. The undulating hills around the lake have few trees left.

Giraffes, hippos and other wildlife still use Naivasha but the animals are mostly owned by hotels and lodges and the only way the locals see them is over high fences; meanwhile, species of fish and plant alien to the lake, are upsetting its ecological balance. The water is murky from the silt that runs off the hills around, and the fish catches are a shadow of what they used to be. In 20 years, say conservationists and ecologists, the lake could be little more than an African Aral sea - a turbid muddy pond.

The most visible changes to the lake in the last 30 years, and the cause of much of its problems, are the giant sheds and greenhouses of more than 50 major flower farms that now line its shores, and the settlements of more than 250,000 people who have flooded into the area since the global flower industry moved in. Naivasha is now Europe's prime source of cut flowers, and to a lesser extent, vegetables, which are grown on more than 50sq kilometres of land around the lake in the open and under 2,000ha of plastic.

Dr. David Harper, senior lecturer at the UK's Leicester University, who has studied Naivasha for 20 years, says that it is now being sacrificed "for unrestrained commerce". On top of the flower farms, alien species like the Nile perch, crayfish and water hyacinth have been introduced deliberately or accidentally, he says and have have profoundly changed Naivasha's underwater stability.

"We are all sacrificing the lake to keep increasing our standards of living and our lifestyles," he says. "Naivasha is not just any lake. It was then beautiful in the 1960s and globally famous. Now it is brown and murky. This deliberate unrestrained commerce can only be compared to the Aral Sea in Russia that dried up in the 1970s."

The climate and high altitude are perfect for floriculture. Picked in the morning, the flowers can be packed, refrigerated and on their way by plane to Britain by the afternoon. Britain imported 18,000 tonnes of flowers from Kenya in 2005, nearly twice what it did in 2001. One in three of the roses on sale in Europe on St Valentine's Day were air freighted 6,000 km from Kenya, and many of them from Naivasha, the world centre of cut flowers. There are no publicly available figures for how much water the companies extract from the lake but they are conservatively estimated to take at least 20,000 cubic metres of water a day on average.

A survey by a Kenyan school last October found that the maximum depth of the lake was now just 3.7 metres and that the level was more than three metres below what it was in 1982. Heavy rains have since raised it by nearly a metre.

A combination of climate change, which is increasing the severity and frequency of droughts, and the overabstraction of water is now stretching the lake to its limits. "Last year, we could walk right into the heart of the lake through the mud. We are literally watching over the lake as it makes its last kicks," said a security guard at one of the biggest flower farms.

The real price of the flowers sent to Britain is incalculable, says one Kenyan conservationist who asked not to be named following the murder last year of a woman who had fought to save the lake.

"What is not taken into account by the companies is that their activities place enormous extra pressure on the lake. It's not just the water that they extract. Nearly 40,000 people work directly in the farms around Lake Naivasha, but every job attracts nearly seven other people to the area. We estimate that the new population uses about 750,000 bags of charcoal a year. The forests are being felled to provide fuel for the people growing the flowers for Britain", he says.

Demand for meat has also rocketed. This is mostly provided by pastoralists, who have increased the size of their herds, with the result there is now massive erosion in the catchments area. The earth that now runs off the hills into the lake is beginning to starve it of oxygen. At this rate of consumption we shall lose the lake completely within ten or 15 years. The companies will not be able to grow flowers well before then because the water will become too alkaline. "They are shooting themselves in the foot", he says.

It has also encouraged over-fishing even as stocks are falling. John Onyango, a fisherman, says many of the companies have no sewerage whatever and simply dump raw effluent and chemicals into the lake. "Lots of fish are dying as a result. I can not get enough fish compared to three years ago. Now I can only manage to catch between 15 and 20 small ones a day."

"There is a real danger that the Rift valley lakes like Naivasha] will dry up. You can see that conflict will break out: Kenya needs to understand what is the real cost of a poor environment," assistant minister of finance, Peter Kenneth, himself a flower farmer near Nairobi, says.

The town of Naivasha has hardly benefited from the farms, says the mayor, Musa Gita. "The population influx has stressed us in terms of garbage collection, sanitation, schools, electricity, hospitals and roads. It has led to a scramble for the few existing social amenities.

"The flower farms do not house their workers. All the farmers do is have cheap labour and send their workers for the council to take care of. That way, they do not have to worry about sanitation, hospitals or electricity," he says.

He said the human influx has also affected education and crime. "One school now has 2,800 pupils. Naivasha has more rape cases and sexual assaults than any other town in the country including the capital, Nairobi. Barely a day passes without one or two cases of child assaults or rapes. This is because most mothers work at the farms and leave their children under the care of old women for a small fee," said Gitau.

Gitau says that the farms owe the council more than Ksh70million, funds that would go a long way to improving a town that can offer barely any services. "Efforts to make them pay have been fruitless. We are frustrated by a small clique in the government. The flower industry is a lucrative business with big money. The same money is given to politicians and top government officials as kickbacks making the farmers untouchable," he said. But the flower farms of Lake Naivasha have no need to take the lake water, says Dr. Njoroge Mungai, the CEO of the18 hectare Mangana flower farm on the outskirts of Nairobi. All its 34 greenhouses are fitted with gutters to gather rainwater which is led into six reservoirs.

The roses are grown in raised beds, which trap excess water that is led to a special reservoir and recycled back. The farm has ten boreholes but they are never used.

"Flower farming can be sustainable", says Dr Mungai. "We never use the bore holes because we rely on the rainwater and every time we empty the reservoirs, the rain fills them up. This is also why rarely use the river water."

Dr. Julius Kipng'etich, director of the Kenyan Wildlife Service which controls much of the water supply of Kenya, fears that the situation cannot go on.

"[The flower farms] abuse the water. For a water-stressed country like Kenya we have to ask ourselves 'is it a sustainable industry'? It is a real challenge for us."

This report first appeared in the February 14, 2007 edition of The Guardian, London.







© 2005 Commowealth Press Union